Adam - too late now, but I forgot to suggest using 'Hatch' on the copper pours, rather than 'Solid'.
JTAG wiring diagram question(63 posts) (9 voices)
Oops. Actually you did ask me to do that before - I just forgot. Does it really make a big difference?
Anyway we can do that in the next version!
I did manage to find some ribbon cable connectors that would fit. I ordered enough parts to kit all 6 of the boards. Ordering the parts took a lot more time than I thought it would, due to the difficult time finding the 8-pin polarized connectors. I will be glad when we switch to 10-pin.
Adam - no it should not matter about the hatch.
I only thought about it when I looked at the gerber to see the resistor.
I have done the experiment of doing DIY PCBs with a solid and hatched copper pour, but we used a laser printer to make masks on ordinary printable Over-Head Projector (OHP) transparency film. The difference was noticable on the transparency film, and when we etched the board. The 'by hand' techniques we used to make a DIY PCB are far inferior to a real etching tank so our approach would amplify differences. Hence my wanting to 'hatch'.
But a laser printer on OHP film is *much* lower quality than a photoplotter on photoplotter film. Real etching tanks 'bubble' to agitate the etchant and get even etching, we just 'swished' the tray occasionaly. The boards are so small, hence such small areas anyway that I can't imagine it'd matter.
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