Finished :)
http://sardravce.sk/tuke/smartstickSTM32.brd
http://sardravce.sk/tuke/smartstickSTM32.sch
Boards is ordered in OSHPARK and also I order stencil in http://oshstencils.com/ is cheaper then any postage in my coutry :-)
Community rework of standard maple and maple mini.
(181 posts) (14 voices)-
ded
MemberHi,
I working on porting the drivers for the Bluetooth low energy shield for Arduino to the Maple.
The shield however uses only the SPI on the ICSP header for compatibility with all Arduino
boards (Leonardo, UNO, Mega and DUE). This is a major sticking point with the Maple as the EXT header is female, this makes it impossible to directly connect the Bluetooth low energy shield to the Maple.http://redbearlab.com/bleshield/
Would the community consider switching the EXT header to male, this will make it easier to interface Arduino shields to the Maple.
Thanks
Posted 2 years ago # -
I should be finally building up the PCBs in the next week or 2 using the PCBs soycamo and feurig sent me, planning on doing one F1 and F3 but will have enough components to do one more, possibly F3 if I decide it's worth it! I used ventosus' Digikey BoM with a few changes, I can detail those in another post.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I built gbulmer's Orone Mini S8H design. It works!
Photos:
Top (button side):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72707619@N00/9595219208/in/set-72157634944307627Bottom (component side):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72707619@N00/9595224724/in/set-72157634944307627Many thanks to gbulmer for finding several errors I made in construction.
Boards were made at OSH Park. I made a solder stencil using a Cameo cutter and reflowed on a hot plate.
Posted 2 years ago # -
gbulmer
Moderatorcrenn - I agree the ESD part is a bit too small. I would love to find a bigger part, but I haven't found one:-(
The larger devices that I have found either:
a. have a pad underneath (which I think is even harder to assemble), or
b. have an internal pull-up resistor connected to its Vusb pin, so the Vusb can't be directly connected to the sockets USB, or
c. (I think) don't provide the noise filter capacitorsSiy's approach does use a larger part. However that part has the USB pull-up resistor connected to Vusb internally. So Vusb can't be directly connected to the USB socket. I felt that Vusb was the most likely path for electrostatic discharge, so I decided to use this direct-connection approach.
If anyone can find a Full-speed USB ESD part, which can be directly connected to the USB socket, and which contains ESD protection, and the noise filter, then I am happy to have a look at using it instead of the NUF2042.
Posted 2 years ago # -
When I finish building these boards, I'll see if I can't find a bigger part that meets those requirements.
I've gotten this far in the build: http://pic.twitter.com/d8bDz5FLq1
I did note that C1 is meant to be a 100uF Tantlalum, the ones listed on the bill of materials are M7343 which are too big for the board, I'm now wondering what I should do about it. I have spare capacitors of other values, so much just chuck a 10uF ceramic there in it's place, but I'd like to get other opinions first before I do the substitute.
Posted 2 years ago # -
gbulmer
Moderatorcrenn - Crenn, I am very sorry, that BoM error is mine.
The M7343 is for the Orone-mini-S8E/H. I should have put up two BoM's :-(C1 on an Orone-mini-S8A is a 1206 part.
The Micrel MIC5209 voltage regulator data sheet says:
"Input Capacitor
A 1μF capacitor should be placed from IN to GND if there is more than 10 inches of wire between the input and the ac filter capacitor or if a battery is used as the input."The power supply is likely to be noiser than 100uF, but a WAG suggests 10uF with a reasonable ESR will be fine.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Just a note on the BoM would have done, but no harm done, I'm sure I'll need those tantalums later, so nothing will be wasted :). I put in a 10uF capacitor for C1, the same I used for C2, and I've successfully powered up all of the boards and programmed the board containing the STM32F103. The other boards have STM32F303s on them, and haven't been programmed as of yet, but once I get more 0.1" headers, I'll be attempting to do so.
So far so good! Photo of the assembled boards: http://pic.twitter.com/2s2q5vjYGw
Posted 2 years ago # -
http://sardravce.sk/tuke/smartstick.jpg
PCB finished :)
Posted 2 years ago #
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